Old Kern Canyon Road
Upper Mordor
Parking GPS coordinates:
Directions to Boulders: At the parking, duck under a low tree and head uphill. Ffollow the trail; you will soon hit a cool face with some good warm ups. From there, head up and right a bit, following the trail up and up until you hit the necromancer Boulder. The Shiba boulder is just up the gully from there.
1. The Necromancer v6
Start sitting on the little pedestal rock beneath the hanging arete feature on two slopey crimps. Work up the arete with big moves until you gain the jug on the lip at head height. Drop off. A full top out has yet to be done.
2. Azog the Defiler v9
Start with your hands the rat-shit crack left of Necro. Head back and left to the arete, do a few moves on this, also using a tiny right hand crimp in the face, and pull around with punchy moves to good holds.
1. The Necromancer v6
Start sitting on the little pedestal rock beneath the hanging arete feature on two slopey crimps. Work up the arete with big moves until you gain the jug on the lip at head height. Drop off. A full top out has yet to be done.
2. Azog the Defiler v9
Start with your hands the rat-shit crack left of Necro. Head back and left to the arete, do a few moves on this, also using a tiny right hand crimp in the face, and pull around with punchy moves to good holds.
Lower Mordor
Parking GPS coordinates:
Directions to Boulders: From the parking, just drop own over the edge (there is a trail a little, maybe 15 feet, towards Isabella from where you park). The boulders are huge and right there!
1. v4
Start low on a good hold. Balance-y moves take you left to some good holds on the lip. Follow the lip all the way left to the peak and top out.
1. v3
Start as for the previous line. Execute the same moves, but at the crazy-cool pencil hold, pull onto the slab and top out.
1. v5
Start on crimps at head height. Use slab-magic to work up the non-existent holds and feet.
1. v7
Squat start with your hands on a good, flat jug. Tricky moves left gain you a good undercling on the left side of the hanging feature and a sloper-pinch on the right. Set a heel and throw big for good but sharp crimps above. Trend left with progressively easier moves.
2. v4
Start same as previous line. Instead of staying low and left, go up the right side of the hanging feature and then right to rejoin the previous line.
1. v4
Start low on a good hold. Balance-y moves take you left to some good holds on the lip. Follow the lip all the way left to the peak and top out.
1. v3
Start as for the previous line. Execute the same moves, but at the crazy-cool pencil hold, pull onto the slab and top out.
1. v5
Start on crimps at head height. Use slab-magic to work up the non-existent holds and feet.
1. Sauron v7
One of the best in canyon! Start with you left hand on a crimp at chest height and your right hand on the obvious jug at head height. Throw a right heel and work left through crimps to gain a sloper rail. From here, use tension to go left to a good jug. Drop off or quest up!
2. Project
Start at the right hand jug of Sauron. Campus up to a blob feature, and surmount the bulge.
3. Project
Start on sharp crimps over head. Make big pulls on crimps and continue up on better holds. Yikes!
One of the best in canyon! Start with you left hand on a crimp at chest height and your right hand on the obvious jug at head height. Throw a right heel and work left through crimps to gain a sloper rail. From here, use tension to go left to a good jug. Drop off or quest up!
2. Project
Start at the right hand jug of Sauron. Campus up to a blob feature, and surmount the bulge.
3. Project
Start on sharp crimps over head. Make big pulls on crimps and continue up on better holds. Yikes!
Moria
Parking GPS coordinates:
Directions to Boulders: At the east side of the parking, you will see a faint trail traversing up the dirt slope. Follow this up until you get to a flat-ish section of grass with a large oak on your left. Down around this tree is Clan of the Longbeards. For Balrog, continue up the hill.
1. Balrog v6
One of the OG classics of the canyon. Start on the good, flat dish maybe two feet from the right corner. Traverse the lip left tp a big move to gain the left arete. Pull around and slay the beast! There are two other exits. You can pull over the lip just before the jump move for about the same point, or you can go for the full glory: after sticking the throw, continue up the prow and directly over the "head" of Balrog.
2. Baaalrog v9/10
Start on a a decent edge maybe two feet around the corner from Balrog. Tense that core and use some god awful slopers to move around the corner and into Balrog.
3. Full Extension Project
Start on the far right of the boulder with your right on a blocky pinch and your left on a sloper just left. Traverse the entire lip through Baaalrog and finishing on Balrog. Long and beta intensive!
One of the OG classics of the canyon. Start on the good, flat dish maybe two feet from the right corner. Traverse the lip left tp a big move to gain the left arete. Pull around and slay the beast! There are two other exits. You can pull over the lip just before the jump move for about the same point, or you can go for the full glory: after sticking the throw, continue up the prow and directly over the "head" of Balrog.
2. Baaalrog v9/10
Start on a a decent edge maybe two feet around the corner from Balrog. Tense that core and use some god awful slopers to move around the corner and into Balrog.
3. Full Extension Project
Start on the far right of the boulder with your right on a blocky pinch and your left on a sloper just left. Traverse the entire lip through Baaalrog and finishing on Balrog. Long and beta intensive!
The Gate
Parking GPS coordinates:
Directions to Boulders:
The Shire
Parking GPS coordinates:
Directions to Boulders:
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